Every cat food manufacturer will claim in some way that their food is especially "good." But which cat food is really good? Many "cat food tests" on the internet are very subjective or sponsored by the manufacturers themselves. Even the cat food tests by "Stiftung Warentest" are – to put it mildly – highly controversial among food experts, since only the factory food from large corporations is tested and basically only whether what is stated on the label is actually in the can. This makes one wonder which cat food test can still be trusted. And what does "good" actually mean when it comes to cat food?
Wouldn't it be best if you could simply assess the quality of cat food yourself? And that's exactly what you can,If you just take 15 minutes to read this page. Afterwards, you will know the most important things about good cat food and can easily assess the quality of "your" cat food yourself. We will make you a feed expert in 15 minutes with an easy-to-understand guide!
Is it really that hard to assess the quality of cat food yourself?
With cat food, it is often made to seem as if the production and especially the assessment of food quality is totally difficult. That is not true! The question arises why the big food corporations want us to believe that assessing cat food is a complicated science requiring one to be a feed chemist? It absolutely is not!
***Warning irony!***
When you buy meat from the butcher, do you also ask about the "analytical phosphate content in percent of dry matter" – or about the "calcium-phosphate ratio", or the magnesium content in the dry matter of the steak or which "artificial vitamins were added to the schnitzel"?
All clear? So the first rule: don't overdo the "chemical analysis" of cat food.
The question of what good cat food is is surprisingly easy to answer:
Most industrial cat food offered on the market does not consist of high-quality meat, but rather a cocktail of cheap "by-products" from the meat industry and gastronomy, such as slaughter waste, spoiled meat of "Category 3", production waste from the food industry, "cooked" (hydrolyzed) feathers, old industrial or gastronomy fat (frying fat), artificial enzymes, artificial vitamins, and unfortunately often undeclared additives that are nicely pressed into shape with the help of enzymes and colorants. Even urine as an ingredient is legally permitted in Germany and is often used as a cheap "salt substitute" – "real meat", as we would eat it, is usually not really included – or does your food label say "meat of food-grade quality"?
This is initially just a claim from us and for many perhaps a bit of a shock, but we are industry experts and will convincingly prove this in the following chapters.
The industry, which makes billion-euro sales, does not like to talk about the "meat qualities" contained or the origin, but prefers to talk about "analytical laboratory values" to distract from the actual contents, because the "analytical laboratory values" can be easily influenced with all kinds of additives and then you have – at least on paper – "good" cat food, which can be sold very expensively in relation to the extremely cheap ingredients with some glossy advertising and multi-million euro TV spots.
It is quite possible to make cat food with decent analysis values from an old leather shoe sole and a few cheap additives, by-products, and attractants (acceptance enhancers) that even "taste good" to the cat! (Source: Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats, 2005) (Currently, about 400 additives are approved for feed in Germany – many do not have to be declared; a complete list can be found here at the Federal Office of Consumer Protection)
Distinguishing good from bad cat food is actually quite simple and not rocket science, after all, we also eat reasonably balanced without being food chemists – you just need some common sense, understand the fine print on the label, and know that cats are pure carnivores (so-called carnivores).
The rest is simple:
1) Good cat food consists of at least 90% good Meat – in FOOD GRADE QUALITY!
Just take a look at the label of your wet food – really, grab a can or pouch of wet food. :-)
This declaration describes very high-quality cat food.
Since cats are pure carnivores, the first question to assess good cat food must always be: "How much real meat is really in the cat food?" The mentioned ingredients are listed in the fine print by quantity, i.e. the first listed position is the most in the food, the last ingredient is the least in the food. How much meat from which animal in what quality does your cat food have?
If we consider the ideal food for cats – the mouse – then it should be between 85% and 95% meat. Or are you like many who trusted the TV commercials or the flowery names ("As tasty as it looks") of the food and ended up with a "by-products-and-slaughter waste canned food" and are feeding your cats in good faith with cat food almost without good muscle meat? And if there is so little real meat in the can, then what is the rest?
Unfortunately, these are mostly slaughter waste declared as "by-products", even carcasses – also from sick animals, e.g. with tumor tissue, grain waste, urine, feathers, fillers, added tap water that is paid for expensively, flavor enhancers, emulsifiers, other additives, colorants, and even sugar and grain are still found in some foods! With the help of enzymes, this mash is first heated and then shaped and afterwards actually looks like real meat pieces; even fibers can be artificially "produced" with enzymes. And beware, now it gets confusing: "100% from fresh meat" does not mean that the food consists of 100% meat, but that the amount of meat contained (often just about 4%) is "fresh"!
(For completeness, it should be mentioned that there are of course also high-quality By-products of food quality includes, for example, fresh chicken hearts or fresh liver – however, these "by-products of food quality" or "butcher quality" are unfortunately almost never included in factory food – sometimes they are even Category III by-products – that is, inferior slaughter waste, tumor tissue, and spoiled meat that is no longer approved for human consumption) or at least udders, cracklings, lungs, necks, etc., which contain little healthy material that the demanding cat organism can utilize.
In recent years, increasing cases of pancreatic diseases and food allergies in cats have been diagnosed. Experts suspect a connection between these diseases and the diet with industrially produced pet food.
Just to clarify – all this is legally permitted and complies with the valid regulations for animal feed.
2) "By-products" and "material" of "Category III" are NOT meat!
Is the food made of meat – or only a mixture of "meat AND animal by-products"?
If no exact indication of the contained meat is printed or the percentage is only given together as "meat and animal by-products" without further breakdown, this is a sign of inferior food that you better not give to your cats – animal by-products, as usually used in factory cat food, are generally "Category 3 by-products" – that is, by-products NOT APPROVED for human consumption, so NOT high-quality meat, but waste generated in slaughterhouses, e.g. dead animals, intestines, ears, eyes, hides, hooves, horns, genitalia, uteruses, udders, blood cakes, urine, feathers and quills, intestines, lungs, cracklings, tendons, carcasses, claws and "animal meals", the latter of which can serve as a cover for even worse things.
Unfortunately, even the term "meat" is very flexible – it makes a huge difference whether it is high-quality muscle meat of food grade or flabby, inferior connective tissue like udder, placenta, slaughter waste, or animal parts that have almost no nutritional value like throat, hooves, cracklings, or lungs. Unfortunately, both are listed on pet food cans as "meat and by-products," which makes assessing quality difficult for consumers. But even the few percent of meat actually contained in some commercial pet foods are usually only inferior "by-products." In fact, the meat contained should have FOOD GRADE quality and be declared accordingly on the can, because only good, fresh meat has the important and high-quality proteins, vitamins, minerals, and essential fatty acids that nature intended for cats!
Anyone who believes that high-quality cat food can be made from slaughter and industrial waste plus a few colorings, flavors, flavor enhancers, enzymes, cheap artificial vitamins, preservatives, binders, flow agents, coagulation aids, emulsifiers, stabilizers, thickeners and gelling agents, as well as acidity regulators, is mistaken. In total, over two hundred substances, including controversial medications, are approved for pet food production! By law, only at least 4% "meat and by-products" from ONE animal species are required to call the food e.g. "chicken meat" (flavor-giving component). The remaining 96% of contents can be anything, e.g. slaughter waste from pigs, and do not have to be separately declared – as in the example as "pork." This means this variety, let's call it "Delicious Chicken in Jelly," then contains almost exclusively slaughter waste from pigs. This is valid law in the EU!
We have posted two pictures here of "slaughter waste" and "by-products" of category 3, as they occur in a slaughterhouse or a large chicken farm. However, not all commercial pet food manufacturers use such inferior material; many also use better meat qualities. We have deliberately kept the pictures very small. Please only look at them if you are sure you want to see this, as the content is quite unpleasant!
Feed containing ingredients or by-products that are not 100% openly declared must generally be classified as inferior. The higher the meat content, the better – after all, cats are carnivores. The meat should be clearly labeled as "food grade," otherwise it is almost certainly the "quality" mentioned above.
A small vegetable content of under 5% is even very good – this corresponds roughly to the stomach contents of a mouse, which cats often also eat. But this should not be confused with vegetables as cheap fillers! So vegetables only as much as can be in the mouse's stomach, or in the stomachs of the mice that could be caught in one day – this is about 3-4%. Anything below 90% meat content you should therefore not feed, because cats are pure carnivores. They can hardly make use of rice, grains, soy, fruit, plant protein, etc. – and their entire organism, such as the short intestine, is designed to digest animal food. Not to mention the numerous additives – to not make things complicated now, here are three things that in our opinion SHOULD ABSOLUTELY NOT be contained in cat food:
NO SUGAR! (often also "disguised" as beet pulp, beet leaves, beet greens, sucrose, caramel, molasses, muscovado, fondant, syrup, glucose, dextrose, galactose, maltodextrin, farin, fructose, glycogen, hexose, cassia gum, isoglucose, rock candy farin, sorbitol, xylitol, cassia gum, etc.)
no GRAINS, no RICE, no potatoes, no CORN, no SOY, no NOODLES, no PLANT PROTEIN EXTRACTS! and
NO LOW-QUALITY BY-PRODUCTS!
Yes, of course there are also high-quality by-products in the form of valuable offal such as heart and liver in food quality. However, this does not include everything that is undeclared or lung, gristle, udder, hooves, feathers, necks, connective tissue, etc., which have almost no nutritional value.
Here are some examples of low-quality food that you can immediately recognize by the label:
| Meat and animal by-products (of which 4% beef), plant protein extracts, fish and fish by-products, minerals, sugar. |
Meat and animal by-products (of which 4% beef) - ...no concrete quantity indication for meat and by-products, only 4% meat and by-products from beef, it is not even clear whether the 4% are meat or by-products from beef. Anything can really be processed in this food.
plant protein extracts, ...have no place in cat food, especially if neither quantity nor origin is stated, this usually hides waste from the food industry used as cheap fillers.
Fish and fish by-products, …also no quantity indication here either - this usually hides waste from the fish industry, moreover, good cat food should only have a single animal protein source.
Minerals, ...artificial minerals without any quantity indication - good food in food-grade quality does not need artificial minerals - good meat already contains all the minerals that Mother Nature intended
Sugar, ...is unnatural and harmful to cats, leads to diabetes, tooth decay, and is mostly used to cover up foul odors of slaughter waste and give them an appetizing color - cooked fish or meat, for example, is quite gray and smells strong - colored with sugar it then looks nicely dark and smells better to humans.
| Meat and animal by-products, (chicken and pork), grains, plant protein extracts, plant by-products, milk and dairy products, oils and fats, yeasts, sugar, minerals |
This food is even advertised as especially suitable for kittens,
often sold by veterinarians and is particularly expensive. The meat content is not specified, it contains grains, plant by-products, yeasts, and even sugar.
Meat and animal by-products - ...no specific quantity given for meat and by-products, chicken and pork, in this food really anything can be processed in any amount
Grains, plant protein extracts, ...have no place in cat food, especially when neither quantity nor origin is stated, this usually hides waste from the food industry
Milk and dairy products, …also no quantity specified here - this usually hides waste from large dairies like spoiled milk and whey, which provide no nutrients for cats..
Oils and fats, ...good food in food-grade quality does not need artificial fats - especially since these are obtained from cheap waste fat from the gastronomy industry - old frying fat for cats is not particularly high quality
Yeasts, ...behind this are glutamates used as flavor enhancers.
|
poultry meal, rice, corn, cracklings, animal fat, corn gluten feed, |
We found downright "shocking" ingredient lists in a very expensive dry food that is also sold by veterinarians and is one of the most praised and popular on Amazon.
Poultry meal - ...is the absolutely lowest quality waste product from poultry farming
Rice, corn, cracklings, ...have no place in cat food, especially if neither quantity nor origin is stated, these usually hide waste from the food industry
Wheat, wheat feed flour, Corn gluten feed …Grains have absolutely no place in cat food, they are cheap fillers that cats cannot digest..
animal protein (hydrolyzed) - ..behind this are feathers and quills that are cooked under high pressure for hours until a slimy substance forms - high-quality meat looks different.
Beet pulp ...another word for sugar.
Oligosaccharides, ...another word for sugar - makes the cat's stool firmer because otherwise it would be liquid after eating this food.
"Red" marks the ingredients that should not be in cat food or whose quantity is either not properly declared or far too low, such as about 4% meat and by-products. If you find such an ingredient list on your food, you should take action, because it can make cats sick in the long run!
3) The matter of percentage figures using the example "protein."
Would you come up with the idea to feed your cats feathers? No? But these are contained in many cat foods!
Now it gets even worse! The pure percentage figures of ingredients are generally of little significance when it comes to assessing feed quality. (Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats, 2005) The quality of, for example, proteins is determined by their content of "essential amino acids" and their ratio to each other – the so-called biological value, i.e. in this case the usability for the cat. The indication "crude protein in percent" in the feed has almost no significance if animal or plant by-products, grains, or gelatin are contained in the feed. In general, plant proteins have a much worse "amino acid pattern" than animal proteins, with proteins from legumes (peas, lentils, beans) and corn protein (corn gluten) being the worst. The very worst biological value of all proteins, however, is an animal protein: gelatin. Especially in canned foods with "sauce" or "jelly," it is processed in large quantities and only drives up the analytical protein value – the cat gets almost nothing from it!
Even "feather meal" is very commonly processed in factory feed to increase the protein value because it has a very high protein content of about 90% in the dry matter, but this consists almost exclusively of indigestible keratin – feathers and feather quills. To still be able to use it in animal feed, it is "hydrolyzed", i.e. it is heated for hours under high pressure with steam at 140°C. In the fine print, it is found as "hydrolyzed poultry proteins." This results in a digestibility of 70-75%, but during this treatment, a large part of the essential amino acids contained are destroyed, and the biological value of this protein is even worse than that of "corn gluten." Here too, the analytical values of the feed have almost no significance in assessing whether it is "good cat food." The only important factor is the quality of the processed meat and thus the quality of the processed proteins. The meat should be clearly defined as "meat of food grade" – plant and animal "by-products," unless it is heart or liver, in our opinion, have no place in good cat food. We found a clear list with the "translations" of the ingredients used by the factory feed industry on the website "hauspuma.de." With a CLICK, the list opens in a separate window.
4) Grain in cat food is not species-appropriate!
The relative intestinal length of a mammal is a good indicator of which type of diet the organism is best adapted to. Simply put: short intestine = carnivore / long intestine = herbivore - everything in between are "omnivores." The intestinal length of living beings is given below in relation to their body length. In "pure carnivores" like the cat, the length of the intestine in relation to body length is 3:1 (intestine "only" three times as long as the cat). In an "omnivore" that prefers meat, like humans 5:1, dogs 6:1, and a pure herbivore like a sheep 24:1.
The reason for this is that raw, plant-based substances take much longer to be digested and utilized by the body. Cats therefore cannot utilize grain components of the food with their very short intestines. This significantly burdens the kidneys and the entire organism and the cat gets nothing from it - only the food can has a nice high protein content due to the plant proteins (see above).
Note: "Meat stays inside the cat and grain passes through the cat"
Try the test yourself and put a few whole corn kernels or peas in your cat's food. You will find them unchanged in the litter box after a few hours. Just because the pet food industry processes these by pureeing them does not mean that the cat's organism can suddenly digest plant-based food after a few hundred thousand years of meat consumption.
In addition, manufacturers of factory feed naturally do not use the highest quality grain - mostly it is no longer approved for human consumption or is a by-product of other manufacturing processes and can even contain dangerous mycotoxins (mold toxins) such as Aflatoxin B1 - but that is another topic.
Cats should therefore only be given food that has a very high meat content (at least 90%) and no grain at all!
5) Why is sugar in many commercial pet foods if it makes cats sick?
The pet food companies do this for three reasons. First, sugar is suspected of making cats addicted – not the taste of sugar (cats cannot taste "sweet" at all), but the metabolism of cats develops a dependency on sugar.
Secondly – and this is the most important reason – inferior food smells better to humans because of the sugar and looks much better. The sugar is often present in caramelized form and gives the otherwise grayish-pale "animal by-products" a nicer color (caramel color) for humans, a nicer consistency and shine – the food then simply looks "tasty" and nicely dark to us.
Thirdly, sugar, e.g. in the form of "sugar beet pulp" (see photo), is a very, very inexpensive filler not only for wet but also for dry food, as it is a waste product from agriculture. The shredded skins, leaves, and roots of sugar beets that cannot be used in sugar production and cost nothing are used.
Sugar is also added to dry foods and often "disguised" as beet pulp, beet leaves, beet greens, sucrose, caramel, molasses, muscovado, fondant, syrup, glucose, dextrose, galactose, maltodextrin, farin, fructose, glycogen, hexose, isoglucose, rock candy farin, sorbitol, xyli...
Sugar causes diabetes (sugar disease), diarrhea, and severe dental damage in cats. The claim that dry food is good for the teeth is a myth of the dry food industry – the exact opposite is true: the mush of chewed dry food sticks to the teeth and can cause serious damage there. But wait, the industry also offers special dental dry food – which you give after the supposedly good normal dry food for the teeth may have caused dental problems. ;-)
6) If my cat likes it, it must be good food - right?
Unfortunately, this is a misconception that is quite widespread! Most commercial pet foods today contain artificial enzymes and odor and flavor substances that deceive the cat into thinking it is "good food." Usually, up to 2% "acceptance enhancers" in the form of liver hydrolysate (orthophosphoric acid E338 and its salts potassium sorbate E 202 (to preserve the product) chemically-synthetically produced amino acids: methionine D,L, glycine, cysteine-L HCl reducing sugars: maltol, dextrose or glucose, D-xylose enzymes: protease monosodium glutamate riboflavin disodium ribonucleotides) are used, which are mixed into the food – this artificially increases acceptance and masks the smell of category 3 animal by-products or other inferior ingredients.
Or artificial enzymes are additionally added, as "Spiegel" revealed: "The enzymes of the Danish company "Novozymes" apparently double the hunger of test dogs and test cats for the food offered to them. Quote: "Enzymes with cumbersome names such as "Protamex" or "Novo Pro D" are used." (Spiegel.de)
The cat then apparently eats much too large amounts of the inferior food with great pleasure.
And once hand on heart – if we let children freely choose their food, they would happily eat chips, fries, pizza, chocolate, and hazelnut cream. The truth is, we cat owners ultimately have the responsibility for what we feed our animals – because cats eat what they are used to – what we get them used to is up to us. By the way: how to successfully switch your cat to new food is explained here.
7) What is good dry food?
This is quite easy to answer – unfortunately, there is no really good dry food if "good" means nutritionally good from the cat's perspective. Even if the marketing departments of the big corporations like to claim that. Dry food cannot technically be made from 100% "meat," so it always contains fillers and binders such as grains or beet pulp (see the paragraphs about grains and sugar), which are not good for cats. And the supposedly high-quality dry food sits for many weeks or even months unrefrigerated first in the supermarket, then in the kitchen cupboard – to prevent spoilage, preservatives must be added. But preservatives burden your cat's body! Dry food is suspected to be responsible for many diseases such as diabetes, dental diseases, inflammatory bowel diseases, and hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver) in cats. And then the marketing departments of some manufacturers even claim it is good for dental cleaning! That is of course not true, as dry food hardly comes into contact with the teeth. (Ideal for dental cleaning would be, for example, a chicken neck that you get from the butcher, on which the cat chews heartily for an hour and thus cleans the teeth.)
The worst thing about dry food, however, is that large amounts of water are necessary for its digestion, which is withdrawn from the cat's organism – but since cats do not have a pronounced thirst like we humans or, for example, dogs, dry food almost always leads to water deficiency and sooner or later to kidney diseases or diseases of the lower urinary tract. Cats must take in three times the amount of water of the dry food eaten to digest it! (Dr. med. vet. Ziegler 2011) If your cat is used to dry food, at least set up a cat fountain and gradually switch it to wet food in the long term. If you want to learn more about the disadvantages and dangers of dry food, we recommend the site "tatzenladen.de."
8) Is there also cheap, very good cat food?
In our opinion, unfortunately, that does not exist. Finding really good cat food is very difficult and, to be honest, very good cat food is more expensive than factory food because of the high-quality, fresh meat used in food quality – which is somewhat offset by the fact that cats need to eat much less in comparison to get their required nutrients, as the nutrient content is much higher. Up to half less than the usual amount of supermarket food – this reduces the "higher" price by up to half. Also, in older cats, veterinary costs are by far not as high because the animals are simply much healthier in the long term.
If you consider the meat content, the price is very relative anyway. Often, according to the declaration, cheap cat food varieties contain hardly any high-quality meat suitable for the cat's organism in food quality, but rather "meat and by-products" without further precise details, often diluted with 30% tap water – for this "stuff," which costs only a few cents per kilo to purchase, even 4 EUR per kilo is still way too much!
At Lucky-Kitty, we searched for a very long time for very good cat food for ourselves and our friends and did not find any suitable products in stores. Even the published tests of cat food, such as the cat food test by Stiftung Warentest, where various cat foods were tested, did not convince us when it came to the actual ingredients, because ultimately the suitability and quality of the food for cats were not really evaluated, but only whether what is stated on the label is actually contained in the food, not to mention that only the well-known factory and discount store foods were tested.
9) Where can I get really good cat food?
We asked ourselves this question too. Because in our opinion it is very difficult to get truly trustworthy, high-quality food, we sat down with specialized veterinarians, various experts, and a master butcher who has specialized in high-quality pet food for many years and developed and also produced for ourselves what we consider the best possible wet food for cats; initially only very small quantities just for us.
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We no longer wanted to subject our cats to what we consider inferior factory food, so we made our own best possible food. Please allow us a little self-promotion from here on, as we are firmly convinced that Lucky-Kitty cat food is one of the best wet foods available and is good for the long-term health of your cat(s).
If you are not interested in this, just stop reading here - you have now learned a lot about how to recognize really good cat food and what the ingredient information on the label means.
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Nice that you are still here and that this part also interests you!
Over time, this food quality has become known among acquaintances and friends and has spread to ever larger circles, so today we produce perhaps the best cat food in the world in a small batch (which is why it is basically not available through the big resellers). Even Lucky-Kitty customers who are looking for the best cat food but have not found it to this day can now order the Lucky-Kitty cat food with the best possible meat qualities in food grade quality here from us*.
The following advantages does Lucky-Kitty cat food have:
- 95% high-quality meat in FOOD GRADE QUALITY from the master butcher, heart and some liver (the remaining 5% simulate the plant-based stomach contents of a mouse plus some calcium (eggshells) for healthy bones) and of course taurine for healthy eyes, which, as leading experts demand, is added at 1,000mg/kg.
- all in food grade quality (could be safely consumed by humans)
- from the specialized master butcher we trust
- single-type meat, i.e., it is guaranteed that only one single type of meat is processed
- only meat of regional origin is processed (fish comes from the North Sea) - no meat from factory farming!
- free from fillers
- free from binders such as gelatin or cassia gum
- free from antioxidants
- free from grains such as wheat, rice, soy, and dairy products.
- free from inferior animal or plant by-products
- free from waste from slaughterhouses, agriculture, and gastronomy businesses (K3 material)
- free from unnatural additives such as colorings and preservatives
- free from animal meals, soy, and sugar
- free from feather meal
- free from added water, not even "disguised" as "broth"
- free from artificial, appetite-stimulating enzymes
- free from synthetic vitamins
- free from artificial fat additives
- free from artificial aroma and attractants
- free from flavor enhancers
-
...and guaranteed free from everything else that by law does not have to be officially declared! (Currently, about 400 additives are approved for pet food in Germany - many do not have to be declared; a complete list can be found here at the Federal Office of Consumer Protection)
The site "Katzen-fieber.de", regarded as an institution in independent pet food evaluation, has rated the high quality of Lucky-Kitty food as follows:
A food rating from the site "Katzen-fieber.de" – unfortunately, this rating of food brands is no longer online today.
Lucky-Kitty wet food for cats is very high quality and therefore especially suitable as kitten food, food for senior cats, allergy food for allergic cats, and even as food for cats with diabetes and cats with kidney disease (in CNI IRIS stage I to II and always in consultation with the veterinarian; in CNI stage III and IV, depending on your cat's measured blood values, you should possibly add phosphate binders to the high-quality food, e.g., ground eggshells), because the proteins contained are as high quality as possible and the phosphate content is relatively low – this relieves the liver, stomach, intestines, and especially the kidneys.
You can only order Lucky-Kitty cat food with the highest quality food-grade meat from the master butcher and without inferior animal or plant by-products here with us – we guarantee the quality of the high-quality ingredients used:
Lucky-Kitty Premium Cat Food Sample Set
Lucky-Kitty Premium Cat Food Beef
Lucky-Kitty Premium Cat Food Turkey
Lucky-Kitty Premium Cat Food Fish
Lucky-Kitty Premium Cat Food Chicken
Lucky-Kitty Premium cat food chicken hearts
TIP: Changing cat food - how it (almost) always succeeds
TIP: 10 tips on how your cat drinks more
10) Is there anything better than Lucky-Kitty cat food?
Of course – there are: rats, mice, chicks, birds, squirrels, etc. The first three are also available frozen in reptile shops, for example, and are the best nutrition for cats if you can bring yourself to feed them, but also BARF (Biological Species-appropriate Raw Food) – that is, feeding cats raw meat and bones – however, this is not easy and quite expensive and labor-intensive, because first, you must always have high-quality raw meat at home, and second, the owner must ensure a balanced composition and supplements themselves. But there is now enough literature and websites to approach the topic, and it is learnable. But even the most dedicated BARFer does not always have time to prepare fresh raw cat food – in this case, it is good to rely on a very high-quality canned wet food like Lucky-Kitty.
Lucky-Kitty food tastes especially good from
to the Lucky-Kitty cat bowl. ;-)
Der Spiegel: Masked Trash
List of Approved Additives in Pet Food
Der Spiegel: Fat Thanks to Additives
Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats, 2005