Every cat food manufacturer will claim some form of their food to be particularly “good”. But which cat food is really good? Many “cat food tests” on the Internet are very subjective or sponsored by the manufacturers themselves. Even the cat food tests by "Stiftung Warentest" are highly controversial among food experts - carefully worded - because only the factory food from the large corporations is tested and basically only whether what is written on the label is also in the can. This makes you wonder which cat food test you can still rely on. And what does “good” actually mean when it comes to cat food?
Wouldn't it be best if you could easily judge the quality of cat food yourself? And that’s exactly what you can do, wIf you only take 15 minutes to read this page. You will then know the most important things about good cat food and can easily assess the quality of “your” cat food yourself. We'll turn you into a feeding expert in 15 minutes with an easy-to-understand guide!
Is it really that difficult to assess the quality of cat food yourself?
When it comes to cat food, people often act as if producing it and, above all, assessing the quality of the food is extremely difficult. That's not true! This begs the question, why do the big food companies want us to believe that evaluating cat food is a complicated science that requires you to be a feed chemist? It's not her at all!
***Attention Irony!***
When buying meat from the butcher, ask for the “analytical phosphate content in percent of the dry matter” – or the “calcium-phosphate ratio”, or the magnesium content in the dry matter of the steak or which “artificial vitamins were added to the schnitzel”?
Understood? So first rule: don’t overdo the “chemical analysis” of cat food.
The question of what is good cat food is surprisingly easy to answer:
Most of the industrial cat food offered on the market does not consist of high-quality meat, but rather a cocktail of cheap "by-products" of the meat industry and gastronomy, such as slaughterhouse waste, stored "category 3" meat, production waste from the food industry, "cooked" ( hydrolyzed) feathers, old industrial or catering fat (frying eye fat), artificial enzymes, artificial vitamins and unfortunately often undeclared additives that are beautifully pressed into shape with the help of enzymes and dyes. Even urine as an ingredient is legally permitted in Germany and is often used as a cheap "salt substitute" - "real meat" like we would eat is usually not actually included - or does your food say "food grade meat" on the label?
This is just an assertion from us and may come as a bit of a shock to many, but we are industry experts and will provide comprehensible evidence of this in the following chapters.
The industry, which makes billions of euros in sales, does not like to talk about the "meat qualities" or the origin, but prefers to talk about "analytical laboratory values" in order to distract from the actual content, because the "analytical laboratory values" can be easily achieved with all sorts of additives influence and you have - at least on paper - "good" cat food, which can be sold very expensively in relation to the extremely cheap ingredients with some glossy advertising and television spots worth millions.
It is quite possible to make cat food with acceptable analytical values that the cat even "likes" from an old leather shoe sole and a few cheap additives, by-products and attractants (acceptance enhancers)! (Source: Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats, 2005) (There are currently around 400 additives approved for feed in Germany - many do not have to be declared; you can find a complete list here at the Federal Office of Consumer Protection)
Distinguishing good from bad cat food is actually quite simple and not a science, after all, we eat a fairly balanced diet without being food chemists - you just have to have a little common sense, understand the small print on the label and know that cats are pure meat eaters (so-called carnivores).
The rest is simple:
1) Good cat food consists of at least 90% good Meat - in FOOD QUALITY!
Take a look at the label on your wet food - really, get a can or bag of wet food. :-)
This declaration describes very high quality cat food.
Since cats are pure carnivores, the first question when assessing good cat food must always be: "How much real meat is really in cat food?" The contents mentioned are in the small print sorted quantitatively, i.e. the first-mentioned item has the most in the food, the latter ingredient has the least in the food. How much meat from which animal and what quality does your cat food contain?
If we assume the ideal food for cats - mice - then it should be between 85% and 95% meat. Or are you now like many people who trusted the TV advertising or the flowery name ("As delicious as it looks") of the food and you have picked up a "canned offal and offal" food and are feeding it to your cats in good faith with a cat food almost without good muscle meat? And if there's so little real meat in the can, what's the rest?
Unfortunately, these are mostly slaughterhouse waste declared as "by-products", even carcasses - also from sick animals, for example with tumor tissue, grain waste, urine, feathers, fillers, added tap water which is expensive, flavor enhancers, emulsifiers, other additives, colorings and even sugar and grain are still found in some feeds! With the help of enzymes, this pulp is first heated and then shaped and then actually looks like real pieces of meat; you can even artificially "create" fibers with enzymes. And be careful, now it gets confusing: “100% made from fresh meat” does not mean that the food is made from 100% meat, but rather the amount of meat it contains (often just 4%) is “fresh”!
(For the sake of completeness, it should be mentioned that there are of course also high quality ones Food grade by-products such as fresh chicken hearts or fresh liver - however, these "food-grade by-products" or "butcher-quality" are unfortunately almost never included in factory feed - sometimes they are even category III by-products - i.e. low-quality slaughterhouse waste, tumor tissue and rotten meat, which is essential for humans Consumption is no longer permitted.) or at least udders, greaves, lungs, necks, etc., which contain little that is healthy for the demanding cat organism to utilize.
In recent years, pancreatic diseases and food allergies in cats have been increasingly diagnosed. Experts suspect that there is a connection between these diseases and the diet with industrially produced animal feed.
Just to clarify - this is all permitted by law and complies with current animal feed regulations.
2) “By-products” and “material” of “Category III” are NOT meat!
Does the food consist of meat – or just a mixture of “meat AND animal by-products”?
If no exact information about the meat contained is printed or the percentage is only given together in "Meat and animal by-products" without any further breakdown, this is an indication of inferior food that you should not give your cats - animal by-products, like them Mostly used in factory cat food are usually "category 3 by-products" - i.e. by-products that ARE NOT APPROVED for human consumption, i.e. NOT high-quality meat, but waste that is produced in slaughterhouses, e.g. dead animals, intestines, ears, eyes , hides, hooves, horns, genitals, uteruses, udders, blood cakes, urine, feathers and quills, intestines, lungs, cracklings, tendons, carcasses, claws and "animal meal", the latter of which can serve as a hiding place for even worse things.
Unfortunately, even the term "meat" is very flexible - it makes a huge difference whether it is high-quality, food-grade muscle meat or wobbly, low-quality connective tissue such as udder or placenta. Slaughterhouse waste or animal parts that have almost no nutritional value, such as maws, hooves, greaves or lungs. Unfortunately, both cans are labeled as “meat and by-products,” which makes it difficult for consumers to assess the quality. But even the few percent of meat that is actually contained in some factory feed is usually just low-quality "by-products." In fact, the meat contained should be of FOOD QUALITY and be declared accordingly on the can, because only good, fresh meat contains the important and high-quality proteins, vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids that nature provides for cats!
Anyone who believes that high-quality cat food can be made from slaughterhouse and industrial waste and a few dyes, flavors, flavor enhancers, enzymes, cheap artificial vitamins, preservatives, binders, flow aids, coagulation aids, emulsifiers, stabilizers, thickeners and gelling agents as well as acidity regulators is mistaken. In total, over two hundred substances, including controversial medications, are permitted in animal feed production! By law, only at least 4% of “meat and by-products” from ONE animal species are required in order to then be able to call the food “chicken meat” (flavoring component). The remaining 96% content can then be anything, e.g. also pork waste, and does not have to be declared separately - as in the example as "pork". This variety, let's call it "Delicious Chicken in Jelly", contains almost exclusively pork waste. This is valid law in the EU!
We have posted two pictures here of "slaughter waste" and "by-products" of category 3, as they arise in a slaughterhouse or a large chicken farm. However, not all factory feed manufacturers work with such inferior material; many also use better quality meat. We deliberately kept the images very small. Please only watch it if you are sure you want to see it, as the content is quite unpleasant!
Food whose contents or by-products are not 100% openly declared must generally be classified as inferior. The higher the meat content, the better – cats are carnivores, after all. The meat should be clearly labeled as “food grade,” otherwise it is almost certainly the “grade” mentioned above.
A small proportion of vegetables of less than 5% is actually very good - this corresponds roughly to the stomach contents of a mouse, which cats often also eat. But you shouldn't confuse this with vegetables as a cheap filler! Vegetables are only as much as can be in the stomach of the mouse, or in the stomach of the mice that could be caught in one day - that's around 3-4%. You should therefore not feed anything that contains less than 90% meat, because cats are pure carnivores. They can do next to nothing with rice, grains, soy, fruit, vegetable protein, etc. - and your entire organism, such as the short intestine, is designed to digest fleshy food. Not to mention the numerous additives - in order not to make things too complicated, here are three things that, in our opinion, should NOT be included in cat food under ANY circumstances:
NO SUGAR! (often also "disguised" as beet pulp, beet leaves, beet greens, sucrose, caramel, molasses, muscovade, fondant, syrup, glucose, dextrose, galactose, maltodextrin, farin, fructose, glycogen, hexose, cassia gum, isoglucose, rock candy, sorbitol , Xili, Cassia Gum etc.)
no GRAIN, no RICE, no potatoes, no CORN, no SOY, no PASTA, no VEGETABLE PROTEIN EXTRACTS! and
NO INFERIOR SIDE PRODUCTS!
Yes, of course there are also high-quality by-products in the form of valuable offal such as heart and liver in food quality. This does not include anything that is undeclared or lungs, greaves, udders, hooves, feathers, necks, connective tissue, etc. that have almost no nutritional value.
Here are some examples of inferior food that you can immediately recognize by the banderole:
| Meat and animal by-products (including 4% beef), vegetable protein extracts, fish and Fish by-products, Minerals,Sugar. |
Meat and animal by-products (including 4% beef) - ...no specific quantity for meat and by-products, only 4% meat and beef by-products, it is not even clear whether the 4% Beef meat or by-products. This food can actually contain anything.
plant protein extracts, ...have no place in cat food, especially if neither the quantity nor the origin is mentioned, it usually hides waste from the food industry that is used as cheap fillers.
Fish and fishery products, ...here, too, there is no indication of quantity - this is mostly waste from the fishing industry, and good cat food should only have a single source of animal protein.
Minerals, ...artificial minerals without any indication of quantities - good food of food quality does not need artificial minerals - good meat already contains all the minerals that Mother Nature intended
Zucker, ...is unnatural and harmful to cats, leads to diabetes, tooth decay and is mostly used to cover up the bad smells of slaughterhouse waste and to give them an appetizing color - cooked fish or meat, for example, is quite gray and has a strong smell - colored with sugar it then looks nice and dark and smells better for people.
| Meat and animal by-products, (chicken and Pig), cereals, vegetable protein extracts, vegetable by-products, milk and dairy products, oils and fats , Yeasts, Sugar, Minerals |
This food is even advertised as being particularly suitable for kittens,
is often sold by veterinarians and is particularly expensive. The meat content is not shown; it contains grains, vegetable by-products, yeast and even sugar.
Meat and animal by-products - ...no specific quantities for meat and by-products, chicken and pork, this food can contain anything in any quantity
Cereals, plant protein extracts, ...have no place in cat food, especially if neither the quantity nor the origin is mentioned; it usually hides waste from the food industry
Milk and dairy products, ...here, too, there is no indication of the quantity - this is mostly waste from large dairies such as spoiled milk and whey, which does not provide any nutrients for cats.
Oils and fats, ...good food of food quality does not need artificial fats - especially since these are obtained from cheap waste fat from the catering industry - old frying fat for cats is not particularly high quality
yeast, ...behind this are glutamates which are used as flavor enhancers.
|
Geflügelmehl, Reis, Mais, Grieben, Tierfett, Maiskleberfutter, |
We found downright "horrifying" content information in a very expensive dry food that is also sold by veterinarians and is one of the most praised and popular on Amazon.
poultry meal - ...is the absolute lowest quality waste product from poultry farming
Rice, Corn, Cracklings, ...have no place in cat food, especially if neither the quantity nor the origin is mentioned; this usually hides waste from the food industry
wheat, wheat feed flour, corn glue feed ...Grain has absolutely no place in cat food; it is a cheap filler that cats cannot process.
animal protein (hydrolyzed) - ..hiding behind it are feathers and quills that are cooked under high pressure for hours until a slime-like substance is created - high-quality meat looks different.
beet schnitzel ...another word for sugar.
Oligosaccharide, ...another word for sugar - make the cat's stool more solid, otherwise it would be liquid after eating this food.
"Red" are the ingredients that should not be contained in cat food or whose quantity is either not properly declared or is far too small, is like about 4% meat and by-products. If you find such a contents statement on your food, you should take action because it can make cats sick in the long run!
3) The thing with the percentages using the “protein” example.
Would you consider feeding your cats feathers? No? But these are contained in many cat foods!
Now it's getting even worse! The pure percentages of ingredients are usually not very meaningful when it comes to assessing feed quality. (Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats, 2005) The quality of proteins, for example, is determined by their content of "essential amino acids" and their ratio to one another - the so-called biological value, in this case the Usability for the cat. The statement “crude protein in percent” in the feed has almost no meaning if the feed contains animal or plant by-products, grains or gelatin. In general, plant proteins have a much worse "amino acid pattern" than animal proteins, with the proteins from legumes (peas, lentils, beans) and the corn protein (corn gluten) being the worst. However, one animal protein has the worst biological value of all proteins: gelatin. Especially in canned food with "sauce" or "jelly" it is processed in large quantities and only increases the analytical protein value - the cat hardly benefits from it!
"Feather meal" is also often used in factory feed to increase the protein value because it has a very high protein content of around 90% in the dry matter, but this consists almost exclusively of indigestible keratin - feathers and quills. In order to be able to use it in animal feed, it is "hydrolysed", i.e. it is heated for hours under high pressure with steam at 140°C. In the small print it is listed as " hydrolysed poultry protein ". This gives a digestibility of 70-75%, but this treatment largely destroys the essential amino acids it contains, and the biological value of this protein is even worse than that of "corn gluten". Here too, the analytical values of the feed have almost no significance for judging whether it is "good cat food". The only thing that matters is the quality of the processed meat and thus the quality of the processed proteins. The meat should be clearly defined as " food-grade meat " - plant and animal "by-products", unless it is heart or liver, have no place in good cat food in our opinion. We found a clear list with the "translations" of the ingredients used by the factory feed industry on the "hauspuma.de" website. With a CLICK, the list opens in a separate window.
4) Grain in cat food is not species-appropriate!
The relative length of a mammal's intestines shows which type of diet the organism is best adapted to. To put it simply: short intestine = carnivores / long intestine = herbivores - everything in between are "omnivores". The intestinal length of living creatures is given below in relation to their body length. In "pure carnivores", such as the cat, the length of the intestine is 3:1 in relation to the length of the body (the intestine is "only" three times as long as the cat). For an "omnivore" that prefers meat food, such as humans 5:1, the dog 6:1 and a pure herbivore such as a sheep 24:1.
The reason for this is that raw, plant-based materials take much longer to digest and be utilized by the body. Because of their very short intestines, cats cannot utilize grain portions of their food. This puts a lot of strain on the kidneys and the entire organism and the cat doesn't benefit from it - only the food can has a nice high protein content due to the vegetable proteins (see above).
Note: "Meat stays in the cat and grain goes through the cat"
Do the test yourself and add a few whole corn kernels or peas to your cat's food. You will find them unchanged in the litter box after a few hours. Just because the food industry processes these in pureed form doesn't mean that the cat's organism can suddenly process plant-based food after a few hundred thousand years of meat-based food.
In addition, the manufacturers of Of course, factory feed does not use the highest quality grain - it is usually no longer approved for human consumption or is a by-product of other manufacturing processes and can even contain dangerous mycotoxins (mold toxins) such as aflatoxin B1 included - but that's another topic.
Cats should therefore only be given food that contains a very high meat content (at least 90%) and no grain at all!
5) Why is there sugar in many factory foods if it makes cats sick?
The feed companies do this for three reasons. Firstly, sugar is suspected of making cats addicted - not the taste of the sugar (cats cannot taste "sweet"), but the cat's metabolism develops a dependency on sugar.
Secondly - and this is the most important reason - low-quality food smells and looks much better to people because of the sugar. The sugar is often in caramelized form and gives the otherwise grayish-pale "animal by-products" a color that is more attractive to humans (sugar color), a nicer consistency and shine - the food then simply looks "tasty" and nice and dark to us.
Thirdly, sugar, for example in the form of "sugar beet pulp" (see photo), is a very, very inexpensive filler not only for wet but also for dry food, because it is a waste product from agriculture. The shredded peels, leaves and roots of sugar beets, which cannot be used in sugar production and cost nothing, are then used.
Sugar is also added to dry food and is often "disguised" as beet pulp, beet leaves, beet greens, sucrose, caramel, molasses, muscovade, fondant, syrup, glucose, dextrose, galactose, maltodextrin, farin, fructose, glycogen, hexose, isoglucose, rock candy, sorbitol , Xyli...
Sugar causes diabetes, diarrhea and severe tooth damage in cats. It is a myth from the dry food industry that dry food is good for your teeth - the absolute opposite is the case: the pulp of the chewed dry food sticks to your teeth and can cause serious damage. But wait, the industry also offers special dry dental food - that's what you give after the normal dry food that's so good for your teeth may have caused dental problems. ;-)
6) If my cat likes it, it must be good food - right?
Unfortunately, this is a fairly widespread fallacy! Most factory foods today contain artificial enzymes and scents and flavors that trick the cat into thinking it is “good food.” As a rule, up to 2% of “acceptance improvers” are used here in the form of liver hydrolyzate (orthophosphoric acid E338 and its salts potassium sorbate E 202 (to preserve the product) chemically-synthetically produced amino acids: methionine D, L, glycine, cysteine-L HCl Reducing sugars: maltol, dextrose or glucose, D-xylose Enzymes: protease Mono-sodium glutamate Riboflavin Di-sodium ribonucleotides) are used, which are mixed into the food - this artificially increases acceptance and covers it Smell of category 3 animal by-products or other inferior ingredients.
Or artificial enzymes are added, as the "Spiegel" has revealed: "The enzymes from the Danish company "Novozymes", for example, apparently double the hunger of test dogs and cats for the food offered to them. Quote: "Enzymes with cumbersome names such as " Protamex " or " Novo Pro D " are used. ( Spiegel.de )"
The cat then seems to enjoy eating far too large quantities of the inferior food.
And let's be honest - if we gave children the freedom to choose what they wanted to eat, they would happily eat chips, fries, pizza, chocolate and hazelnut spread. The truth is, we cat owners are ultimately responsible for what we feed our animals - because cats eat what they are used to - what we get them used to is up to us. Speaking of which: we have explained here how you can successfully switch your cat to a new food .
7) What is good dry food?
That's easy to answer - unfortunately there is no really good dry food if it means "good" from a cat's nutritional point of view. Even if the marketing departments of large corporations like to claim that. Dry food cannot technically be made from 100% "meat", so it always contains fillers and binding agents such as grains or beet pulp (see the paragraphs on grains and sugar), which are not good for cats. And the supposedly high-quality dry food sits unrefrigerated for many weeks or even months, first in the supermarket and then in the kitchen cupboard - so that it doesn't spoil, preservatives have to be added. But preservatives put a strain on your cat’s body! Dry food is suspected of being responsible for many diseases such as diabetes, dental disease, inflammatory bowel disease and hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver) in cats. And then the marketing departments of some manufacturers even claim that it is good for cleaning teeth! Of course that's not true, as the dry food hardly comes into contact with the teeth. (For example, a chicken neck that you get from the butcher would be ideal for cleaning teeth, which the cat can chew on heartily for an hour and thus clean its teeth.)
The worst thing about dry food is that it requires large amounts of water to digest, which is removed from the cat's body - but since cats do not have a strong sense of thirst like humans or dogs, giving them dry food almost always leads to dehydration and thus, sooner or later, to kidney disease or diseases of the urinary tract. Cats need to drink three times the amount of water they eat to digest it! (Dr. med. vet. Ziegler 2011) If your cat is used to dry food, at least set up a cat fountain and get them used to wet food in the long term. If you would like to find out more about the disadvantages and dangers of dry food, we recommend the website "tatzenladen.de".
8) Is there also cheap, very good cat food?
Unfortunately, in our opinion, this does not exist. Finding really good cat food is very difficult and, to be honest, very good cat food is also more expensive than factory food because of the high-quality, fresh, human-grade meat used - although this is somewhat put into perspective by the fact that cats have to eat a lot less of it in comparison /strong>to get your required nutrients as the nutrient content is much higher. Up to half less than the usual amount of supermarket food - this minimizes the "higher" price by up to half. As the cats get older, the veterinary costs are not nearly as high because the animals are simply much healthier in the long term.
If you consider the meat included, the price is very relative anyway. According to the declaration, the cheap types of cat food often contain hardly any high-quality, food-grade meat that can be used by the cat's organism, but "meat and by-products" are often mixed with 30% tap water without any further precise information - for this "stuff" that only costs a few cents per kilo when purchased , even EUR 4 per kilo is still far too much!
We at Lucky-Kitty have been looking for very good cat food for ourselves and our friends for a long time and couldn't find it in stores. The published tests of cat food, such as the cat food test by Stiftung Warentest, in which various cat foods were tested, did not convince us when it came to the actual ingredients, as ultimately the suitability and quality of the food for cats was not really evaluated, but rather only whether what is written on the label is actually contained in the food, quite apart from the fact that only the well-known factory and discount store foods were tested.
9) Where can I get really good cat food?
We asked ourselves this question too. Because in our opinion it is very difficult to get really trustworthy, high-quality food, we sat down with specialized veterinarians, various experts and a master butcher who has specialized in high-quality pet food for many years and found what we believe to be the best possible wet food for us Catsdeveloped and also made ourselves; initially only very small quantities just for us.
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We no longer wanted to subject our cats to what we considered to be inferior factory food, so we made our own, best possible food. Please allow us to do some advertising on our own behalf from here on out, as we are firmly convinced that that Lucky-Kitty cat food is one of the best wet foods available and is good for the long-term health of your cat(s).
If that doesn't interest you, just stop reading from here - you've now learned a lot about how to recognize really good cat food and what the contents on the label mean.
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It's nice that you're still here and that you're interested in this part too!
Over time, word of this food quality has spread among friends and acquaintances and has become more and more widespread, and so today we produce what is perhaps the best cat food in the world in a small edition (which is why it is not available through the large retailers). Lucky-Kitty customers who are looking for the best cat food but have not found it yet can now order Lucky-Kitty cat food with the best possible meat qualities in food quality from us here *.
Lucky Kitty cat food has the following advantages:
- 95% high-quality meat in FOOD QUALITY from the master butcher, heart and some liver (the remaining 5% simulates the vegetable stomach contents of a mouse plus some calcium (egg shells) for healthy bones) and of course taurine for healthy eyes, which leading experts demand, with 1,000 mg/kg is added.
- everything in food quality (could also be consumed by humans without hesitation)
- from the specialized master butcher we trust
- Single-variety meat, meaning that only one type of meat is guaranteed to be processed
- Only meat of regional origin is processed (fish comes from the North Sea) - no meat from factory farming!
- free from fillers
- Free of binding agents such as gelatin or cassia gum
- free from antioxidants
- free of grains such as wheat, rice, soy and dairy products.
- free from inferior animal or plant by-products
- free of waste from slaughterhouses, agriculture and catering operations (K3 material)
- Free from non-natural additives such as colors and preservatives
- free from animal meals, soy, and sugar
- free from feather meal
- free of added water, not even “disguised” as “broth”
- free from artificial, appetite-stimulating enzymes
- free from synthetic vitamins
- free from artificial fat additives
- free of artificial flavors and attractants
- free from flavor enhancers
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...and guaranteed free from everything else that does not have to be officially declared according to the law! (There are currently around 400 additives approved for feed in Germany - many of which do not have to be declared; you can find a complete list here at the Federal Office of Consumer Protection)
The website " Katzen-fieber.de , which is considered an institution in terms of independent food evaluation, has rated the high quality of Lucky-Kitty food as follows:
A food review from the site "Katzen-fieber.de" - unfortunately this review of the food brands is no longer online today.
The Lucky Kitty wet food for cats is of very high quality and is therefore particularly suitable as kitten food, food for senior cats, allergy food for cats with allergies and Even suitable as food for cats with diabetes and cats with kidney disease (for CKD in IRIS stages I to II and please always consult your veterinarian; for CKD in stages III and IV Depending on your cat's measured blood values, you should add phosphate binders to the high-quality food (e.g. ground eggshells are suitable.), as the proteins it contains are as high-quality as possible and the phosphate content is relatively low - this relieves the strain on the liver, Stomach, intestines and especially the kidneys.
You can only order Lucky-Kitty cat food with the highest quality food-grade meat from a master butcher and without inferior animal or plant by-products from us here - we vouch for the quality of the high-quality ingredients used:
Lucky-Kitty Premium Cat Food Sample Set
Lucky-Kitty Premium Cat Food Beef
Lucky-Kitty Premium Cat Food Turkey
Lucky-Kitty Premium Cat Food Fish
Lucky-Kitty Premium Cat Food Chicken
Lucky-Kitty Premium Cat Food Chicken Hearts
TIP: Changing your cat's food - this is how it (almost) always works
TIP: 10 tips to get your cat to drink more
10) Is there anything better than Lucky Kitty cat food?
Yes, of course - there are: rats, mice, chicks, birds, squirrels etc. The first three are also available frozen in reptile shops and are the best diet for cats if you can bring yourself to feed them but also BARF (Biological Art-appropriate Rhe Futter) span>- i.e. feeding cats with raw meat and bones - however, this is not that easy and is quite expensive and time-consuming, as firstly, there must always be high-quality, raw meat in the house, secondly, the animal owner must ensure the balanced composition and supplements themselves. But there is now enough literature and websites to approach the topic and it can be learned. But even the most dedicated barfer doesn't always have time to prepare fresh raw cat food - in this case it's good to have a very high quality canned wet food, like that from Lucky-Kitty.
Lucky Kitty food tastes particularly good
the Lucky-Kitty cat bowl. ;-)
The Mirror: Masked Trash
List of approved additives in animal feed
The Mirror: Fat Thanks to Additives
Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats, 2005
